Saturday, January 15, 2011

January 2011

My Dear Friends & Esteemed Guests,

If you will allow me the momentary indiscretion of playing on the immortal words of Robert Burns, I will sum up our January tasting by quoting "the worst laid plans of mice and men often go quite well!"  The weather for this passed January's tasting was frightful, and the whiskies tasted were less than delightful, and yet we incurred the best turn-out in the history of our club.  I must admit that 21 attendees is a bit of a stretch to manage, but I look forward to the opportunity of mastering the challenge!

A few of our cadre, well-intended but over eager, may have come away worse for wear after the evening.  I earnestly hope this will not deter anyone from returning for our February tasting, and urge you all to continue your patronage well into the future.  We would be wise to consider that the nature of our event requires - nay, celebrates! - the consumption of alcohol, and we should therefore never be surprised if a few folks are, from time to time, affected by the potency of our beloved uisge beatha.

We continued our exploration of Scotland this month, by meandering into the Lowlands.  Some revile the Lowlands akin to Mordor: a desolate, God-forsaken place where the semi-human inhabitants eat their own babies.  I have it on excellent authority however, that this is strictly not correct ...agricultural industries actually get along very well there.  My abhorrent tom-foolery aside, the Scottish Lowlands cover the areas of what is known as the Southern Uplands, from the Cheviot Hills along the borders with England to the Central Lowlands between the River Clyde and the Firth of Forth containing Scotland’s chief cities of Edinburgh and Glasgow.  The area includes rolling hills and lush valleys, and was called home by such personalities as Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns (technically, they called it "hame", but I digress).  Production of whisky in this region was originally intended for trade with England, as an ingredient for gin.  The region's production process was heavily influenced throughout its development by Irish whisky manufacturing techniques, and triple distillation has historically been the norm.  Whiskies from this region are, as a result, typically smooth, light, and slightly fiery.  They are very light in - and often devoid of - salt, peat, and smoke.  They tend, as a result, to make good aperitifs.

Only three (Auchentoshan, Bladnoch, and Glenkinchie) of the original ten distilleries in this region have remained active to today, but two new distilleries (Ailsa Bay and Daftmill) have recently been opened.  I am sure this will come as good news to those of you who found a fondness for the Lowland style ...please pardon my mistake, that describes none of us.

Because there are few environmental influences to affect the taste profile of these whiskies, notes generated at the beginning of the process and during the maturation period tend to be more prevalent than in their Highland and island counterparts.  Our nosing focused on "green", "fruity" and "solvent" scents .  "Green odors" - not to be confused with those generated by home composting - are reminiscent of growing plants.  These include freshly cut grass, leaves, green peppers, pine, and damp earth.  These notes are produced as the barley begins germination, on the way to becoming malt.  Fruit notes, produced during fermentation and discussed at length in prior months, are reflected primarily as lemon in the Lowland varietals.  We are sometimes aware of "lemon grass" in these whiskies, but this may be more a matter of confusion in our olfactory nodes, caused by the mixing of the lemony fruit notes with fresh grass notes.  Lastly, the more solventy, spiritous notes were experienced.  These are generated during time in the cask.  Solventy odors, like "glue" or "nail polish" are actually ethereal fruity aromas released as the whisky evaporates.  Spiritous odors are generated as the alcohol vapors oxidize while aging.  Woody notes arise from interaction with the wood, and fall on the same scale as "vanilla" and "caramel", except "woody" has more of a "fresh" sense to it.

The first of the two Lowland whiskies tasted was the Auchentoshan 10 year old.  This dram was smooth and light, with a certain freshness.  We found earthy farmland notes and citrus, and also a leathery, perhaps stale, edge to it.  The finish was surprisingly long on this dram.  Although not a bad whisky, we were in general agreement that it lacked pizazz, and this was reflected in the score of 4.7 that it received.

The second Lowland, and best scoring, whisky of the evening, was the Glenkinchie 10 year.  Here was lemon grass and meadows in spring; exceptionally light with a hint of sweetness.  We found the solvent notes in this dram, expressed as lemon zest - as if you had just twisted the lemon rind served with an espresso.  The finish was dry and lightly spicy.  This, I believe, would make for a good aperitif before a meal.  The Glenkinchie, though taking the night, scored only a 5.9 overall.

Our third whisky was not a Lowlander at all, but a Speysider that we hadn't tried before.  The Glen Moray 12 year old was served in an effort to try to find more green notes, and this was accomplished as hints of "mint".  Unfortunately, this note was overshadowed by livelier fruit and wood aromas, and some nuttiness.  A valiant attempt to try something new, the Glen Moray only earned a 4.9 overall.  It is interesting to me, that the general consensus seemed to be that the Auchy was better than the Glen Moray, and yet the scores do not bear this out.

Conscious I have gone on too long again this month, I will here draw to a close with my best wishes for a Happy New Year to one and all.

Sláinte,

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

December 2010

<The reader is returned to the customary blog format with this month's entry...>

My Dear Friends & Esteemed Guests,


I write in hopes that you had the very best holidays, a Merry Christmas and, as they say in Scotland, a Happy Hogmanay. I myself had a very pleasant end of the year, but since fell a bit under the weather. My sense of smell has not yet returned to its proper place, and you can imagine how much this dismays me. But be of good cheer! And trust that I will be right as rain when next we meet.


In December we expanded into the Highlands. The evening began with a little history, specifically focused on how Speyside, which we discussed last month, is and always has been a sub-set of the Highlands region. Its elevation to a region in its own right is due to the preponderance of distilleries (more than half of all Scotland’s distilleries are here), and that this is owing more to the terrain being suitable to the illicit distilling trade than to any particular nature or style of whisky produced there. The industry creates a stereotype for Highland whiskies in much the same way as they do for Speysides, namely: malty and fruity, and generally with a hint of smoke, and always well influenced by the wood. Of course there will be variations, and these are generalized into sub-divisions. In the North, the typical house style is “big, salty, and sweet” on the nose, and “sweet and dry, with a long finish” on the palate. The Eastern distilleries tend to be fruity and oily. The South are more full bodied, and most eagerly display the influence of their casks. The West have a fairly wide variation even among themselves! Both the North and the West, in my humble opinion, can further be subdivided to include “coastal” styles; the North’s coastal style more heavily containing orange, spice, and salt, the West’s, in addition to the orange and spice, tend to have more complexity. The Islands, exclusive of Islay, are also included in this region, though there is growing understanding of their being quite independent from their “mainland” cousins. Here there is generally a maritime sense to the whisky, with more or less peat. Again, even among themselves, styles vary.


As last month, our nosing covered a wide range of the flavor wheel. Fruit notes, introduced during fermentation, and wood notes, introduced during aging, are most evident. Last month’s letter focused on Speyside’s primary regional aromas: Estery and Woody, so I will not write much on those here. Suffice it to say that in addition to the peachy/coconut notes we nosed last month, we experienced rose-water and hyacinth and discussed the term “perfumed”, which is used when the specific floral scent cannot be identified. Likewise, we explored the more tannic side of the wood scale last month, and focused on balsamic vanilla and caramel this month. There is little need, I am sure, to go into any description of these flavors, owing to their prevalence in every day experience. Lastly, we spent time with the Malty notes, exploring aromas best described as “malted barley”, “butter”, “biscuits” or even “cake”. Although the extremes may contain more burnt variations of this sweet, somewhat thick, note, we did not experience this ourselves. We did notice that several of those present were able to experience only parts of the sensory range, or picked up other notes altogether.


We began our tasting with Dalwhinnie 15 year old. Aromatic, with hints of heather and peat, Dalwhinnie presented the malt and fruit aromas we had just sampled. With water the flavor actually opened up considerably, prompting one participant to encourage us to sip it more slowly: “...it’s not Irish whiskey after all!” The Dalwhinnie scored a respectable, but not stellar, 6.8.


Next up was the Clynelish 14 year old. Faint florals and brown sugar lined the nose, with a respectably creamy but not cloying sweetness were presented to the mouth in a lovely complexity. A hint of salt and a touch bitter on the finish, we scored this dram just a hint behind our first, with an average of 6.75.


Our final glass held Glenmorangie’s The Original, their 10 year old whisky. Being Glenmorangie, we all had high expectations - which were summarily met. A deep and velvety peg, nuts, vanilla, and fresh flowers come together in the nose, and honey and citrus dominate the palate. A long, dry and somewhat oaky finish bring this fine dram to completeness. We scored the Original at 7.85.


Until our next time together,


Sláinte,